VERY IMPORTANT!

DO NOT DISCARD!  Keep this page, Owner’s Manual, and receipt on file for future reference.
If you are having this conversion professionally installed, give this literature to the technician.

The following instructions apply to version 8.2, which is the current design, and which has been used in all conversions since about January, 2006.

If you believe you might have an older version, see below.

This is a very unique product; it is a state-of-the-art, microprocessor-controlled, digitally-tuned AM/FM stereo that is operated with the mechanical tuner and controls of the original radio.  As such, there are some unique features you should be aware of:

POWER WIRING:

RED:  +12 volts power, connect to Ignition switch.
ORANGE:  SWITCHED Power Output, for accessories or for power antenna.
GREEN (some vehicles):  Separate wire for dial lamp.  Connect to dash lights.
METAL CASE:  Ground return.
NOTES:  Some radios, including certain Cadillacs, receive power from power antenna connector or other means, and don’t have a red wire.  Also, if radio is configured for 6 volts and/or positive ground, the power wire will be a separate fused wire, red if negative ground, blue if positive ground.  VERIFY GOOD CONNECTIONS FOR POWER AND GROUND!  Resistance in power will cause distortion in bass at higher volumes, and unfortunately is common as most vehicles have 40-50-year-old wiring.

SPEAKER WIRING:

BLUE/PURPLE:  Left speakers, BLUE is high side.
GRAY/WHITE:  Right speakers, GRAY is high side.
NOTES:  Most radios have two sets of each.  Use the YELLOW sleeved wires for front speakers, GREEN sleeved wires for the rear speakers.  If only two speakers are used, use the YELLOW sleeves.  If only a single speaker is used, use the GRAY/WHITE with YELLOW sleeve.  EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!!!!  Older car radios connected the minus side of the speaker to ground.  DO NOT ALLOW ANY SPEAKER WIRE TO TOUCH GROUND, OR EACH OTHER, as this WILL damage the audio IC and void the warranty!  DO NOT use original wiring; run new wires for the speakers, and watch for pinching and sharp edges.

BROWN WIRE (Option):  Most radios switch input mode automatically, but in a few cases this is disabled.  If so, a BROWN wire is used for this.  Grounding this wire through a switch will select input mode.  NOTE:  Don’t forget to switch back when accessory is turned off, or you will not hear the radio!

BALANCE AND FADER:  Check Page 1 of your Owner’s Manual.  If “ALT” is selected for balance and/or fader (most radios), adjustment is made with the TONE control.  HOW TO ADJUST:  With radio in FM mode, move the tuning dial all the way to the low end (balance) or high end (fader).  Wait ten seconds for the radio station to come back on.  When it does, adjust the TONE control for balance or fade.  NOTE:  Original default is balance in the center, fader to the front.  If four speakers are connected, fader must be adjusted to enable rear speakers.  Also, if a single speaker is used, adjust balance to the right and radio will be forced to mono.

IN CASE OF DIFFICULTY
WARRANTY:  The Stereo PCB used in the conversion has been proven to be extremely reliable, with field failures almost nonexistent.  Every PCB is tested at the factory, then calibrated and tested again on the bench in the radio, using professional lab equipment.  If any difficulty is found, it is generally caught before leaving the premises.  However there is still the possibility that trouble can occur, and thus we carry a manufacturer’s warranty against defects for a period of a full year from purchase date.  This warranty does not extend to damage caused by incorrect wiring, vehicle accident, acts of God, or other causes which are of no fault of the manufacturer or dealer.
In the unlikely event you have difficulty with this conversion, there is a much greater chance that the problem is related to incorrect installation, improper operation, and/or faulty wiring in the antique vehicle than with the new stereo itself.  For this reason we strongly suggest you test/inspect/troubleshoot the wiring, antenna, speakers, and power supply before making any assumptions about the radio.
Below are some common problems/solutions based on past experience.  When troubleshooting radio, disconnect all accessories and any “creative” devices, such as powered subwoofers, etc.

1.  Radio is silent:  (a) Bad power.  Check for +13.8 volts between ORANGE wire and ground, even if the car is 6 volts.  If below 11 volts, radio will not play.  (b)  Bad reception.  If antenna is bad or not connected properly, radio will mute.  (c)  Check balance/fader settings if less than four speakers are used.  (d)  Improper speaker wiring can burn out the audio IC.  This can be tested with a voltmeter; you should measure about 2.7 volts DC between any speaker wire and ground.  If you don’t, IC is damaged and radio must be returned for repair.
2. Very little volume, or some speakers do not work:  Check balance/fader settings.  All radios leave the bench with balance in center, fader to front.  Check page 1 of manual for location of controls.  If “ALT”, set tone control in the approximate center.  Move dial all the way to the low end (balance), then to high end (fader) and wait at least ten seconds each time.  You should now have audio energy going to all four speakers.  Readjust balance/fader as desired.
3. Distortion at high volume:  (a) Check balance/fader settings.  No energy should go to unconnected speaker outputs.  (b) Resistance in power/ground will cause distortion in bass.  This is particularly common with Corvettes with Fiberglas bodies.  Check/tighten all power connections, or bypass with other wires to test.  (c) Speakers should be able to handle 60 watts peak each, or 120 watts/pair.
4. Accessories cannot be heard through input jacks:  These are line level inputs, similar to home stereo components.  Many small devices, such as Ipods, have only a headphone jack; these are a mismatch, but will generally work fine if volume is turned up.  If your accessory volume is such that the stereo frequently returns to radio mode, we can modify the radio so that inputs are selected with an external switch.  Contact us for details.

We will be happy to inspect any conversion during the warranty period, for the price of shipping.  If problems are found, we will repair and return it at no charge.  All warranty returns must be accompanied by bill of sale (or legible copy).

 

 

OLDER VERSIONS:

How to tell which version you may have, if in doubt::

Versions 8.0, 8.1, and 8.2 have a white 12 pin connector, 2 rows of 6 pins each.

Versions 7.0 and 7.1 have a 12 pin connector, 3 rows of 4 pins each.

Versions 6.0, 5.0, 4.2, 4.0, and 3.0 have a 10 pin connector, and a few also have an additional 4 pin connector.

 

Variations between versions:

All of the above instructions apply to version 8.2. They apply to older versions, with the following variations:

Version 8.0, 8.1 (both rare): Built for a very short time in late 2005, only a few were made. Identical to the 8.2 except for input mode switching. To enable input mode, accessory must use the orange wire for 12 volts power. When current draw is sensed on the orange wire, radio switches to input mode.

Versions 7.0 (rare) and 7.1 were introduced about January/February 2004. Almost all are 7.1. Instructions are identical except for the input mode. Inputs at this time were designed for use with an optional CD changer that is no longer available. These inputs may be used for other devices such as iPods or satellite radios, however an external switch is required. When 12 volts is applied to the brown wire, radio is switched to input mode. NOTE that this is DIFFERENT from the current 8.2 version's optional brown wire. On version 7.1 and earlier, a SPST switch can be used to connect the brown and orange wires together to enable input mode.

Versions 6.0 and earlier: Version 6.0 was introduced in early 2000; conversions built before this are 5.0, 4.2, 4.0, or 3.0. These are rated at 22 watts RMS per speaker, with most designed for two speakers. (Versions 1 and 2 were mostly experimental, with only 12 watts rating, with very few reaching the field; not covered here.) Wiring is as follows:

Black wire: Most of these DO NOT have a black wire. If your stereo has a black wire, read below.

Brown wire: Switching for input mode. Connect as per Version 7.

Red wire: 12 volts power input. If designed for 6 volts and/or positive ground, there will be a separate wire for power.

Orange wire: 12 volts OUTPUT, for power antenna or accessory.

Yellow wire (wonderbar radios only): Foot pedal for wonderbar. Temporarily grounding this wire activates the signal seek.

Green wire (some radios): Power to dial lamp.

Blue/Purple: Left Speaker, blue is high side.

Gray/White: Right speaker, gray is high side.

There was an extra cost option which allowed for four speakers, 88 watts. This had an additional four pin connector for wiring of two more speakers. Blue/purple is left channel, gray/white is right. Use main connector wires for front speakers, aux connector wires for rear.

Balance and fader(if applicable) are located on the back of the radio, unless original radio had provisions.

IF YOUR RADIO HAS A BLACK WIRE: All newer conversions, as with nearly all newer car stereos, have bridged amps which require two wires for each speaker. Older car radios have single-ended wiring, where the negative side of the speaker is connected to chassis ground. Some of the older 4-speaker stereo conversions also use this arrangement, and you can tell by the presence of the black wire. If you have one of these, speaker connections are as follows:

Blue: Left Front. Purple: Left Rear. Gray: Right Front. White: Right rear. Black: Common ground for all four speakers.

FINAL NOTE ABOUT OLDER VERSIONS: The current version 8.2 stereos outperform the version 6 and older with four speakers and four times the power. It outperforms the versions 5 and older with superior tuning, more sensitive and FAR more stable. It is also more immune to alternator noises and other interference issues. If you have an older version and wish to improve its performance, please contact us. Older versions can be updated. There is a charge of course, covering the new PCB and labor, but it is far less expensive than performing a conversion of another radio outright.